Hello, and welcome to another prop! This time, I’m making the Nuka Cola Rocket Bottle from the video game, Fallout 4! Not only does it look like a bottle in the game, it also contains liquid!


  • Step 1: 3D model
  • Step 2: Consumables, tools, etc.
  • Step 3: Sand and prepwork
  • Step 4: Bottle and bottle cap painting
  • Step 5: Label printing
  • Attachments
  • Step 6: Apply the label and weather
  • Step 7: Clear the coat
  • Step 8: Done!


Hello, and welcome to another prop! This time, I’m making the Nuka Cola Rocket Bottle from the video game, Fallout 4!

Not only does it look like a bottle in the game, it also contains liquid! (Note: Rats are not responsible for eating if you drink from it)

The bottle design is so awesome, I mean c’mon, it’s a FRICKIN ‘ROCKET !! So I had to make one of these and add it to my collection, now, you can make your own!

My main focus for this project is the use of 3D printing; I have always been fascinated by 3D printing and use it to make clues, so I learned how to make a 3D model and how to make this bottle‌ for me!

Instructable will print a 3D model I made for you and show you what it looks like straight from the game! Let’s get started!


I uploaded my Nuka Cola Bottle model to Thingivers on my Thingivers page so download it, it’s free!

The bottle size is approximately 6 “/ 15 cm and holds exactly 150 ml of liquid, the bottle cap can be slid with a 10mm ID neck for extension for a comfortable fit that can be removed and put back in. You can print the size you want by scaling the model up or down By the way, but I believe 15 cm is a good total length.




For this build, I recommend printing in PLA at 100 microns; PLA sand is much lighter than ABS, but ABS also works well for this project.

Although you need a 3D printer to print a 3D model, you do not necessarily need to have a 3D printer. In my case, I found a local 3D printing hub at 3D Hubs. It’s absolutely worth checking whether you own a 3D printer, and it’s much cheaper than using a system like Shapeways; It costs me only £ 15 from 3DHubs instead of £ 90 out of thousands of shapes! What a bargain!

(Direct link to download)


This instructable does not require much in terms of accessories and consumables, all other requirements (except the 3D printer) are standard. Here is the list:


  • Access to a 3D printer (PLA, ABS)
  • Inkjet or laser printer (laser recommended)
  • Sandpaper (120, 200, 400 grit)
  • Sand sponges (medium, fine)
  • Exacto Blade / Scissors
  • Paint brush

Consumer goods:





  • Filler primer spray
  • Squadron putty (filler putty)
  • Model paints (red, silver, black, brown)
  • Black spray paint
  • Coat spray clear
  • Painters tape
  • Printable vinyl fits your printer choice (inkjet or laser)
  • XTC-3D (optional)
  • Rub n Buff “Ebony” (optional)


With your model printing, you should expect the surface of the 3D print to be cluttered and uneven due to the nature of the 3D printing, which is where sanding and filling comes into play.

If you choose, you can use XTC-3D, an epoxy based resin bottle designed for 3D print surfaces and sand filling. This method is definitely easy and takes less time, but XTC-3D is expensive and unnecessary for this 3D print because the shape is simple and consistent.

The filler primer is as great as the surface coat because it reduces the print lines with a coat of thick sand capacity. It fills in stains and sandpaper (and consistency) and gives you a smooth finish. When you are filling and sanding, you want to start with 120 grit for normal sand to change more objects and increase the grit when your model is sensitive to up to 400 grit.





This will take some time and the procedure will be repeated, but to get the best results, keep spraying the primer, filling the areas and sanding and you will get an amazing surface finish!

Note: I do not recommend using black primer for this project, it is not a good color to work with. Gray, earthy red and orange are very good primer colors.


Bottle and bottle cap painting have different approaches. The bottle is spray painted for stability and coverage and the bottle cap is painted with model paints.

For the bottle, a PVC pipe or dowel makes a handy extension for the bottle, plus it means you can paint the entire surface without having to worry about surface contact; A large soda bottle filled with water is a good stand to place the PVC pipe when you spray.

I gave the bottle 3 coats of black spray paint as my final color; I like the “cola” color but can’t achieve that kind of color with standard spray paints, so black is my last choice.

( Always read and follow the instructions of your spray paint; test them first as different brands and colors behave differently! )

The bottle cap has a red center and a silver edge. To achieve this I used model acrylic paints. I like the “Citadel” brand because it is strongly pigmented and does not require multiple layers for better color but other model paints also work great.

To make the bottle cap shine, making it look post-apocalyptic and reliable like a 200-year-old bottle cap, a simple wash of brown and black paint gives it a neat aging look and removes the bold edge from the red and silver.


For the red Nuka Cola label, I decided to make a vector and print the label, rather than hand-painting the label. It makes the process a lot easier, plus I can give you guys a vector label to use;)

(If you choose to draw the label by hand instead, you can ignore the printing and applicable guidelines and use vectors as instructions instead.)

I made the label in Inkscape using my screenshots as instructions for the closest match possible.

To print labels, I recommend printable vinyl with adhesive support. I like to use laser printer compatible vinyl as the laser is water and oil resistant, but inkjet prints can leak and smudge overtime.

If you print the bottle to its original model size, the grid of labels will fit the bottle exactly, but I recommend printing the test with plain cartridge paper. You do not want to waste your expensive vinyl! If you are modifying the print model size, you will need to adjust the vector to fit the bottle.

After printing, cut with a sharp blade or scissors, cut as accurately as possible and overlap on the bottle; The adhesive strength is sufficient to hold the bottle.


  • Nuka Cola.Swiji Download


If you prefer to have a crisp, clean bottle instead of a dirty, horrible look, you can skip this step but to make the bottle more reliable as a 200 year old item, holding the label works great.

Using an X-Octo knife and brown paint, I drew lines into the label and painted brown paint around the edge and on the cuts; It looks great, disguises the edge of the brown paint label and blends well with it.

If you also want to trim the bottle, oil-based brown or black paint like “Rub‌nbuff” works great, but I wanted the black bottle to be clean with the label and bottle cap grime; However you want to finish your bottle aesthetically.


The clear coating bottle process is similar to the painting stage; You will also need spray coats on a PVC pipe or 2 bottles as a dowel and water bottle stand. If you use an inkjet label, I recommend an extra coat that focuses on the label, to seal it as best as possible.

(Remember to do consistent spray strokes too and always check the guidelines of the spray can!)

To clear the coat bottle cap, tape the length and stick it to a piece of paper or cardboard, so as not to move while spraying, as the cap is painted red and silver.


Congratulations! Your bottle is done!

This project has been a lot of fun for me since I finally completed my first 3D printed profile I modeled and I am so happy how it happened!

This support works really well on display and looks great with other fallout profiles on the desk or shelf.

I took some pictures with some fallout related clues for fun. Enjoy the last pictures!

If you have any questions or opinions, please feel free to comment to me; I am always eager to help and if you do one, please share with me! I like other people making things from my instructables.


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